My buddy with a 2001 Ford Lightning with basically the same exact mods made 15 less hp and 10 less tq. My 2002 Ford Lightning for instance made 440rwhp/525rwtq with just some basic mods and pulley upgrades. I have always trusted the proven tuners to tune my supercharged vehicles, because they can do it right the first time instead of me wasting hours and days on data logging and adjusting a/f ratios and whatnot. are the same, and the same tune will affect each vehicle differently. I know from personal experience with tuning that no two bikes, cars, trucks, etc. If you don't know anything except what you read on the internet, then leave it to the pros that know what they are doing and have tuned bikes day in and day out for years. If you have enough experience and have seen enough charts/graphs to know what a good power curve and A/F ratio is, you may have a shot at getting a decent tune on your own. I also run a PCV on both bikes to allow my own tweaking as desired. The reflash is to kill the O2 sensors in the ECU, insert a baseline tune for basic mods, and change the dash startup message(costs extra). I would expect the average consumer with basic mods to go with a reflash whereas a constant "tweaker" would go with a piggyback so the tune can be altered at will. So, it's either pay now or later either way you go. The MAIN difference is in that to alter a reflash tune (without adding a piggyback controller) is that it requires another reflash and the associated cost. A reflash loads it right into the ECU and all the others are piggyback devices that intercept the the injector signals and modify them per their internal map before sending it back out. The difference is in how it is applied to the bike. That said, once a good tune is mapped, a tune is a tune. Which one is true? Your experience please.Ĭlick to expand.Well that all depends on who set up the tune inserted in the reflash. While another tuner I called told me, there is no problems. Can't be compared to inline four which has power output in every combustion cycle. He thinks even going to a ecu reflash would not fix the low end, because "it is how a v-twin is". He did not suggest me going for reflash at all. He had some monsters come back for rechecking the fueling after some months of reflash. I also have heard from my tuner something about the ecu gets wired after several months.
He adjusted the o2 optimizer with 20% (15% on one cylingder, 5% on another) richer setting.
I still could not bear the surging of low end during slow traffic. At the beginning it was reasonable good, but after riding for two weeks to work. I did a PCV + dyno before which improves a little of the low end. Just want to get some feedback from you about how you feels about that? Do you get surge under 2000k at all? I mean, "at all", not a little. WTHeck Since I wasn't planning on having it done until way into the winter I have time to consider my options.I have known that some of you did a ecu reflash on you hypie 796. He said as long as I don't open the engine case I won't void my warranty. He did say that flashing the ECU was a nice bump in performance as long as Kawasaki doesn't find out about it.īefore I had my 2012 flashed I talked to my local dealer. As soon as they found out the ECU was flashed they voided his warranty.
The 2nd time Kawasaki asked for a whole bunch of stuff from the bike including a read out of the ECU. He mentioned a guy that was beating on his C14 and blew the clutch up. Jerry from HOK was really nice and explained to me that IF Kawasaki finds out you flashed your ECU they will void your warranty. I was on the phone with HOK ( ) ordering something for my 2015 C14 and I mentioned I was planning on having my ECU flashed. I'll try and make as much sense out of this as I can and I'm sure this will open a whole can of worms.